Friday, October 2, 2009

Day 59 Gilgit 26th Aug 09

Today we decided that we would wake up later and slowly make our way to visit Kargah Buddha. A place just about 7km from Madina Guesthouse with a carving of a Buddha from the 7th century on the face of a mountain.

We went out and saw Felix sitting at the dining area and asked what was his plan and he wanted to follow us. But he said he was planning to go to Deosai Plains with Carlos and was waiting for him to get back on the price so he couldn’t follow us. We asked for the directions from Irfan the friendly staff and left and was on our way.

Just about 10mins away from the Guesthouse, Felix came running towards us and said that he would follow us to Kargah Buddha. We took our time slowly walking thru the bazaars of Gilgit and stopped at a bridge across the river to enjoy the view and took some pictures before we moved on. The bridge seems old but still sturdy enough to hold the vehicles that was passing thru to the other side.


Felix the German Guy


View of the bridge

On the way we pass shops and houses with the locals all greeting us and welcoming us to their country. This was nice feeling for us as we didn’t expect the Pakistani to be so friendly after all they are also part Indians.. We met a old man on the way who told us that we should take a jeep up and than walk down which will be easier, but we told him we will walk slowly no hurry and he replied it is okay for you young ones… Kekekkekeke

Before long we were passing by a residential area and saw a teenager sitting just outside his house greeting us and invited us to his house for tea. We were glad to visit a local house so we agreed but told him no need for tea cause we are fasting. He invited us into his cool and cosy house. He introduced his brother and nephew to us while we chatted with him. The house was simple with cushion mattress at lining the sides of the living area and the floor was all carpeted. He pointed to a picture which was hanging at the wall and said that the man is the supreme leader of Islam from Iran.. So we guessed he should be Shitte muslim. Chatted and sat about 15mins and decided to be on our way.


The boys that invited us

We left the house thanking him for his invite and slowly went on our way up to our destination. The day was really hot and the 3 of us was trying our bests to keep our fasts. About 10mins away from the teenagers house we saw him coming towards us with a friend and his brother and told that he would bring us to the Kargah Buddha.


The kids we met on the way

We followed them thru their short cuts which was really arduous for us, steep up slopes, crossing rivers etc…And finally after 30mins or so we arrived and saw the Buddha carving which wasn’t as impressive as we thought it would looked. Stayed and rested for a while before we headed back. Again they brought us thru their short cuts which was really difficult for us under the hot sun. But some of the paths they brought us was really beautiful. We could view the city from the top walking along the water channels..




we are tired.... Especially Felix..whahah


The buddha carvings


Finally we arrived.





The whole geng

Felix was all the time thinking of Mango milk shake and for me my eyes are just seeing glass bottles of coke and fanta orange… I couldn’t think of anything else cause I’m so dehydrated and so thirsty.. whahahah

Walked for about 2 hours or so we finally parted ways and went on the main road back to Madina guest house. It was about 1700hrs when we arrived, we rested for a while offered our solat and went out to await for Iftar. We joined the staffs for the Iftar and later had our main dinner while chatting to Carlos, Felix, Howard and Mr Beck. Mr Beck have so many stories to tell and Carlos would always get him excited telling him the current weapons of war. It was really nice listening to Mr Beck tell his life story.

Day 56 to 58 Lahore to Islamabad 23rd till 25th Aug 09




Awoke about 0330hrs to wake the hotel guy up so he could unlock the door so that we could go for our Sahur (or Sabah in Shina language). Didn’t take us long to wake him up and we followed him to the food stall just across the hotel. We arrived at the shop and was greeted by the supervisor or boss and told us what was available. I ordered a potato and egg curry with roti (naan) and Ramli ordered at beef pattie with roti.


The food was served and mine was quite tasteless and Ramli’s beef pattie was minced up and cooked like corn beef. It tasted good even the hotel guy couldn’t stop eating it.. Hehehhee at first the shop was quite empty but after a while more and more people came and of course all of them are men… Seems the women are really not allowed to get out of the house and as a woman I felt really bad for them. Anyway we finished our food which only costs a total of Pkr190 = SGD3.333 for 3 pax is really cheap. Before we left the hotel guy was asking Ramli if he needed to go to the nearby masjid for prayer, as his English wasn’t good they way he acted out for us in a rather funny way but I guess this is the best way he could show it. He would say “you go Allahu akbar ? with both hands raising up to his ears and resting it at his waist each time and pointing to the masjid just round the corner”. Ramli asked if there is prayer area for women and he seem not sure so we headed back to the hotel to do our solat instead.

The power cut so many times we didn’t get a good rest the whole night cause the room do not have any windows and it was really stuffy and hot. But still we manage to sleep till 1100hrs+ woke up and packed up to get ready to go to Islamabad. Ramli was having a major stomache but was reluctant to go to sleep cause the power again was not on and he knew if he went and took the shower at the same time he would come back ending up sweating again. But after about 10mins he gave up and went to shower and do his big business.


About 15mins later he came back with a long face saying that there is no water.. I was like ermmm no water? And asked if he checked the toilet upstairs ? He went up and came down rinse off the soap before and said that was the last of the water available. Alamak and I have not even bath yet and it was almost 1200hrs and we need to check out. So I went out and asked the guy what happened and he told me maybe wait for 1 hour there will be water. So we waited in the extremely hot room for about an hour… Still no water… Waited another 1.5hrs still no water and each time I would approach the hotel guy to check. So finally I guess he got the message that I really need to take a shower he went and checked the pipes and told me that there isn’t any water and he don’t know the reason why and worst it was a Sunday so no one is working …I was getting furious by now and asked him if I could use the clean water he kept upstairs in the drum for the washing machine… He said okay okay.. So finally I could take my shower and leave for the bus station.


Our ride.. Niazi Express


We arrived at the bus station at about 1430hrs and bought the bus tickets for the 4.5hrs ride to Islamabad which will leave at 1500hrs. We stood around waiting and finally it was time to board. While looking for our seats in the air conditioned bus we saw a old man with a young lady which seems like his grand daughter also looking for their seats. When we all settled down the old man came over and offer us some water which we decline saying we are fasting. And he was quite embarrassed and said in urdu that he is not feeling well and on medication that is why he aren’t fasting.. So we told a guy to help translate and told him it is okay we understand. He shake Ramli’s hands and held my head like how he would do to his daughters or grand childrens.. I don’t know how to express my feelings but I felt really loved somehow even though he was only a stranger.


The bus left and we were on our way to Islamabad. When the bus came to the motorway both of us was in awe!! The motorway was so well constructed with no ditches and humps or rubbish or any dusts.. It looks just like roads in Singapore we are sooo surprised that we could be able to find such clean and well constructed motorway in Pakistan.. Good job!! After about 1hr the bus stopped for toilet and solat break.

I went to the toilet and was surprised yet again as it is so clean and the stalls there and the design is just like the stops on the Malaysia highways but better. Too bad we couldn’t eat anything so we just looked.

Finally the bus arrived at Islamabad about 1930hrs, we bought water just in case we couldn’t make it for buka and took a taxi to the hotel. While on the way we could hear the adzan and so we broke our fast and offered the taxi driver some water too as it seems he has forgotten to break his fast.

Checked into the hotel and went searching for food nearby as the restaurant in the hotel is close. We had chicken karahi at the coffee shop with briyani rice.. The rice was tasty but the chicken karahi couldn’t bit the one we tasted at old Lahore.. Sigh ..Got some water and instant noodles for sahur and went back to the hotel to rest for the night.


Day 57 Islamabad 24th Aug 09


We woke up about at about 0400hrs to cook the instant noodles and some Teh O. Had our sahur and after solat went back to bed planning to wake up at about 0900hrs to go to Taxila for some sight seeing.

We only awoke at about 1100hrs so it was too late and so we decided to go to Rawalpindi to stay another night before we head to Gilgit into the mountains. The hotel had a check out time at 1400hrs so we took our time and pack up and got prepared.


After we took a taxi and arrived at Rawalpindi at about 0300hrs and went around looking for a hotel to stay for the night. The first we went was Hotel Kamran we went in and saw 2 men sitting at the reception whom seems to be oblivious of our arrival. Ramli went into the reception area stood there and they continued talking to themselves and didn’t acknowledge our presence.. We felt so weird as so far we haven’t met a unfriendly Pakistani yet.. Ramli asked if they had a double room available. They said something to each other and finally one stood up and walk over to the counter and ask where we were from and told us there is no room available.. We were curious as we saw that there were so many room keys hanging at the counter but thought since they don’t want business we will just go. We walked over to another hotel Al-falah and went up to check and was expecting the same treatment. But the guy said there was room and requested to see our passport. He checked our visa and told us we couldn’t stay here cause they are in the Cantt area and our visa has a chop stating “not valid for Cantt area”.. hmmmm so we left and decided that we will try our luck to get a bus to Gilgit instead since they wont accept us in Rawalpindi and this city has not much to see…


Luckily there was a bus leaving at 1600hrs to Rawalpindi so we bought the tickets which costs Pkr1030 = SGD19 each. Waited for the time and boarded the Natco air conditioned bus ride for 17-19hrs to Gilgit . The road the Gilgit wasn’t as good as the motorway from Lahore to Islamabad but still bearable. At about Iftar time the bus stopped at a small coffee shop, we went in and was ushered to a ladies area which was separated by cloth screens. Ramli tried to order food from the waiter but they replied him something which he can’t understand. We sat down and waited for about 10mins and it was time to break our fast, luckily we had water so we drank and ate our biscuits. Then Ramli went over again to try order some food and with the help of a fellow passenger who spoke a little English he managed to order chicken karahi and roti. We finished and hoped on the bus again to continue with the humpty bumpy ride thru the night.


Day 58 On they Way to Gilgit 25th Aug 09


Medina Guest House


Even though the bus ride was really bumpy I managed to sleep thru it till it was sahur time. They stopped at a coffee shop and we had roti with chick peas. Again hoped on the bus and was on our way.. This ride took longer than expected..


The last 3hours of the ride to Gilgit was very slow as the Chinese are rebuilding the roads on the KKH but the view was fantastic. Mountains surround the roads and at some points we could see snow caped mountains too… Finally arrived at Gilgit at 1230hrs after 21hrs on the bus.. What a huge relief.

Got on a taxi and headed to Madina Guest House. We were greeted by the friendly staffs at the door and they even helped to carry our bags to the reception area. We view the rooms and decided to settle in a double room with attached bathroom that costs Pkr450/day = SGD8/day. Had our long waited shower and rested till about 1700hrs before we headed out to the streets. The staffs invited us to have iftar with them so we bought some somosas to contribute to the feasts.


Ramli in his tailor made Baju..


We went back to the guesthouse and sat at the dining area reading our books and chatted up with a German guy Felix. He has been trying the fast for the pass 3 days and has been successful. He did this for himself and not for the religion, good for him we thought.. A while later came a Chinese guy Howard who is from Singapore! He has been travelling in China and coming into Pakistan about 2 months now. Later came a Spanish guy who came chatted with us, he is travelling around with his bicycle.. We exchanged our travel stories, the Spanish guys was telling us about a old man Me Beck 80+ of age just sitting behind us talking to a Columbian man Carlos about his life story as a army officer during the war with Indians. He told one particular story he heard which was really hilarious.. The General that was leading them to war had made a silly mistake .. The whole battalion had just crossed over a bridge and one of the soldiers was asking the General was asking what is their next move and the General commanded that they blow up the bridge so that the Indians could not cross over and attack them.. So the soldiers did it and later on did the General realize that they actually had to use that same bridge to get back to where they came from… WAAHHAHAAH we all burst out laughing so loud..


Iftar, Felix and Me


Before we knew the staffs invited us to be seated at the table that they have set up for Iftar.. They had bandung, dates, honey dews, pakora and macaroni soup. The locals are so friendly and welcoming we had a great time…

Day 55 Lahore 22nd Aug 09

We woke up at 0330hrs and found the guy still sleeping so we wake him up so that he could unlock the door and go for our Sahur. Ramli managed to wake him up after a while and he told us that today is not Ramadhan or Ramzan in Urdu. We asked him to confirm if it is not cause yesterday he told us is confirmed. He say yes confirmed not starting today cause he knows he is muslim… Alrighty then we went back to sleep and somehow happy that we would have one more day to enjoy the food of Lahore.

We slept till about 1100hrs got up and decided to go do some sight seeing. At first we were still very skeptical if what the guy said about Ramadhan starting tomorrow was true so we was looking out for people who are eating on the streets to confirm. So we looked around saw the food stalls are open and people are having chai on the streets so its confirmed it hasn’t started yet. We went to Subway first to have our breakfast. I had a chicken ham, turkey leg and beef sandwich. Ramli had a beef steak and cheese sandwich. Enjoyed our sandwich very much eventhough it costs the same as Singapore.





After we took a auto rickshaw to Lahore Fort. Got our tickets at the counter for Pkr200 for foreigner and saw that locals only need to pay Pkr10… Hmmm that is 200 times different how unfair..While entering the fort a guide approached us and asked if we require his service for Pkr300 for about 1.5hrs. Since is wasn’t so expensive we agreed and he showed us around the fort which was built by Emperor Shah Jahan during the Moghul Era the same guy who built the Taj Mahal for his beloved wife. The constructions and designs are almost the same as Red Fort in Agra. The same fort was occupied by the British, Sikhs and Moghuls during the various wars during that time. And you could see the destructions that was made by the Bristish and Sikhs which is really a shame as the constructions and the intricate details of the various halls of the fort was all beautifully done but only to be destroyed by the intruders. While touring the place a couple who just got married approached us to have pictures taken with them. Is really weird that Singaporeans could also excite them.. Kekekkekek


The newly weds

The guide also explained to us the meaning of the Pakistani flag, the five points of the star signifies the 5 pillars of Islam, Crescent moon signifies prosperity, the green signifies that 97% of the population are Muslims and the white signifies the population of the non muslims. Ohhhh now we know why are always see the star and crescent moon at the masjid, muslims stalls etc… We learnt something new today!!

Walking along the guide overheard a conversation that a local woman was having with her guide. They were talking about a 80carat diamond from Pakistan and how the other half of the diamond was stolen by the British and wasn’t returned till now. It is said to be on Queen Victoria’s crown.. Hmmm interesting… We finished the tour about 1.5hrs later and we continued venturing on our own in the compound.

Just near that fort there is the Badshahi Masjid which could hold up to 60,000 people at one time. We walked towards the Masjid to view and also to check if we could have our Solat there since is about Zuhur time. While into the Masjid a local guide followed us and was pestering Ramli to engage his service and all the time he was trying to convince Ramli and telling him whom are the people he have guided before. Showing the name cards of people from National Geographic or something. I wasn’t interested at all as this guy do not have a honest face. He looks real cunning in someway, so I just walked and ignored him all the time. When we entered the Masjid the Adzan started so we had to asked the guide if woman could perform prayers here as in Pakistan most of the Masjids only have prayer areas for men. He said I could right at the end so we went to look for the wudhu area. I approached the ladies who were sitting at the women area eventhough they couldn’t understand me much they could understand that I was asking where I could do the wudhu since this is a universal word for all Islams in the world. They pointed the way and guess what it is at the entrance of the Masjid. So now we had to walk back across the hot hot floor about 200m across the courtyard to the entrance. The guide didn’t give up and said he wanted to perform the solat and followed us the same.

The floor of this masjid should be made of marble or something cause the floor is so cooling. And most important it is clean. Normally you would see carpets that has the individual standing section but here they had it done with marble and some other stone with different colors the indicate the different sections. It was beautiful. After solat I walked over to wait for Ramli. While sitting down and waiting I noticed a local lady in black juba was secretly taking my picture with her mobile phone. Hmm I just ignored and act as I didn’t know. Ramli later came with the guide and than we were approached by a local guy to have pictures taken with them and whom happened to be the brother of the lady in the black juba.




All of us..

We took a few pictures and was walking away when another 2 men approached Ramli to have pictures taken with them. One of the man worked in Kuala Lumpur before for 2 years and was able to speak a little Malay. While taking pictures the brother and sister was talking to our guide and after a while they approached us and asked if they could follow us on our sight seeing that day as they would like to keep us company and the brother who was visiting the sister from Multan is also doing some sight seeing himself. Ramli was discussing with the guide on his charges and he at first said is Pkr1000 to bring us to the Old City and the Wagah Border to see the closing ceremony w/o vehicle but including the charge for the bus ride to the border. We thought was really expensive and declined his offer. The brother and sister was talking to the guide about something while I was talking to a teenage girl who approached me and asked me my name etc. There was a group of them all girls whom seems to be on an excursion here. She invited me to her village which was 2 hours away but I told her it is too far for me so I couldn’t go. I asked to have a picture taken with all of them and they left after. Each of them shaking my hands…


The Girls from a nearby village

Back to the guide, brother and sister. The guide told us that the siblings wanted to go with us to the border also and offered to arranged the car for us and we didn’t have to pay as the sister has a friend with the taxi. We were very much grateful but yet embarrassed as we don’t know if they could afford as we thought it would be very expensive as we paid for a one way taxi ride from Wagah to Lahore we paid Pkr600. But both of them insisted as they would also like to go and see the closing ceremony. So back to the guide on this charges, he said if w/o the bus ride he would charge Pkr700… Hmmm still expensive but as the siblings are very keen to keep us company for the day and they aren’t really sure on the way etc we thought we just agreed to the fee of the guide and let him bring us around.

We started our “tour” at the masjid, he asked all of us to stand at a corner of the masjid in between a wall. And went over to the other side and whispered something to the wall and amazingly we could hear loud and clear from the other side. As during the olden times there wasn’t any mics or speakers available the people has found a way to build the masjid in a way that everyone in the masjid would be able to hear the Imam without him having to scream his lungs out. Impressive!

After we headed over to the tomb of Allama Mohammed Iqbal a philosopher and poet. We entered and the guide asked us to stand at the front of the tomb and he used a lighter to shine behind the tombstone and amazingly we could see the movement of the fire thru the 15cm thick tombstone. He was saying that the stone is of a very high quality. After we walked towards the gate across to the old city.


Preparing Chicken Karahi


Men making naans


Chicken Karahi!! Yummy

After about 5mins the guide asked if we wanted to stop and have lunch at a famous local restaurant to try the local food which is very tasty. We discussed with the siblings as since they have not taken their lunch we agreed to accompany them. We walked pass the cooking area which was outside the sitting area. We could smell the nice aroma of the food they were cooking. Seems to be chicken with tomatoes and some spices simmering in the individual woks. A few steps later we could see the men making roti (like naan) in the tandor oven.. We entered the ac seating area and waited while they made the order. They told us the food is called Chicken or Mutton Karahi eaten with roti. We waited while the guide and the Brother (Rashid) kept going out to chase them to have it done a.s.a.p. as there was a long queue outside as the locals are also buying to prepare for Ramzan.

After about 20mins and many times pestering the food finally came, the look of it is so appetizing that we had to try even though we already had our breakfast/lunch at subway. The first taste of the chicken was whoa and I couldn’t explain in words… It is just so tasty with the spices they put in.. I could only taste pepper, tomatoes and ginger… Rashid was happy and glad that we enjoyed the food so much and I even asked the sister to write for me the recipe so I could cook it when I get back home. We enjoyed the food so much. We paid the bill secretly but later was found out by Rashid and he and his sister insisted they foot the bill and returned our money. It costs Pkr600+ which we thought was too expensive for them but they kept insisting to pay cause we are the guests and it is Pakistani tradition that the host do not eat from the guests. We are so honoured.


The street Dentists

After we ventured thru the busy streets of the old city as we need to rush to the other end to meet up the taxi and Rashid to get to the border before we are too late and miss the ceremony. While walking the sister stopped and was sitting a make shift stall of a local dentist. He had a picture of a clean and perfect teeth drawn and painted with the many different dentures that was available. To us it looks like someone else teeth which has fallen off and the “dentist” has collected and put it on sale. The sister has a missing tooth just beside her 2 front teeth and wanted to have it replaced. We were so amazed with how the dentist was filing the tooth that he thought was good for her. He was using a filer used for metals all rusty and all trying his bests to file the tooth to fit her. The “dentist” tried to fix the teeth in her gums and after getting the tooth to the correct size he took up some pink sandy liquid to put on the tooth and quickly pushing it up her gums after putting a liquid which seems like alcohol to kill any bacteria or germs. We could see from her expression that it is really painful.. After it was moulded the sister talked to the “dentist” in a angry tone and after a while she walked off without having the tooth fixed. The guide was telling me that it didn’t fit comfortably so she didn’t want it. Hmmm after all that pain…

We walked on thru the busy streets into the Kasmiri bazaar selling all sorts of household wares and also cloths for womens garments. The colors are so beautiful and all the cloths are decorated with shiny jewels.. We were running late as Rashid kept calling his sister so we had to rush and walked thru the city. We wanted to enter a masjid which was very different from all the others we had seen. The minarets and walls are all beautifully decorated with colorful flowers and designs.. We didn’t have time so we just took some pictures from the outside and continued.

Finally meeting up with Rashid and the taxi driver we went on our way to Wagah border. We arrived at about 1800hrs which was still early so we sat at the coffee stalls near the border to have some drinks. The siblings bought for us some samosas with the cold mint sauce which was really tasty. We met the porter that we met yesterday at Mr Latifs book stall and chatted with him for a while and he asked that we go over to the border soon as it is going to start.

Walked over paid our entrance fee for foreigners at Pkr100/pax and paid for the sibling, guide and taxi driver at Pkr10/pax… Hmmm after entering than we know why the foreigners pay a higher price cause we have allotted seats at the front with comfortable chairs while the locals have to sit right behind on concrete benches. The sister and guide was able to come with us but Rashid and the taxi driver had to go to the local seating area.


Patriotic Old man


Marching on.
The ceremony was about to start, we could see across to the Indian border that it was all crowded and packed with the locals all energized.. Pakistan didn’t fill up the place but still they are as energized as the Indians. A group or locals was shouting out some slogans from the Pakistani corner and dancing happily. There was 2 cheer leaders to keep the energy of the locals. A middle age man and a old man with white beard holding up the Pakistani flag and rising up their hands and waving to the locals. The middle age man was holding the flag and dancing with it and exciting the crowds. After a while a man came to the mic and started shouting Pakistan !! and the locals replied Zin na bad!! Which we found out later that it means Live Long.. So is Live long Pakistan. It is so amazing to see how patriotic the locals are.. When they shouted Pakistan Zin Na bad the Indian corner would reply something which we thought should be India Live long also.


Can you spot Rasheed in Yellow..



The seats we were sitting are all filled with foreigners but we could hear a lady shouting really loudly Pakistan Zinnabad.!!! I turned and saw that it was Rashid’s sister screaming at the top of her lungs and raising up her hands with all the energy she had… Hahahahah


Stare..

After about 10mins of jeering the soldiers finally came matching in to start the main ceremony. Pakistani soldiers are all in black and red head gear while the Indians are in beige with colorful head gear. They marched in so hard we felt pain for their feets, they were like stomping towards the gate and the Indians will do the same. At some points they would kick they legs so high that it almost hit their heads. A few of them would marched right up to the gates and stare each other at the eyes with the hands and chest up like protesting to each other how strong each of them are. The ceremony was amazing and if we had the chance we would want to see it from the Indian side too. The ceremony ended after the lower down the flags and shut the gates.




Ramli at the Pakistan Gate.

We headed back and the guide was asking where we wanted to go. We wanted to go to Anarkali market which the guide at the fort has recommended us to go since we wanted to buy some local clothes. As we weren’t very happy with his company I told him that he could just drop us there and he could go home after we can walk around on our own. He got a surprised look on his face when I said it but I just didn’t bothered. The siblings wanted to follow us but later declined as they had a guest waiting for them at home. The sister invited us to her house which we were glad to go but told them we had to go back to the hotel first to get our stuffs. They thought and thought and later decided they will go with us to Anarkali market and have dinner with us and head on our own way.

On the way to the market the taxi driver was telling Rashid to ask us for his payment for the day. We were surprised to why he didn’t asked us himself as he was just sitting beside Ramli… We were reluctant to pay him as he didn’t do anything as a guide but since we have agreed on the price earlier we paid him with obligation. While passing him the money the sister who was at the front sit of the taxi signaled to me mouthing “no. no no” but Ramli had already pass the money to him while asking the guide is correct right Pkr700 as agreed. This guy is trying to get more, he said is up to you if you think I deserve more. Ramli and me just ignored him. And after he told Ramli that Pkr700 is not his normal charge as the siblings followed us and provided the taxi he didn’t charge so much again trying to tell us he wanted more. Again we just ignored him. And if he were to ask again I guess Ramli would have bombarded him.. Whahahah


Poori... Yummy


My turn to try

He dropped off at the railway station and after we stopped at the Anarkali Market. The siblings brought us to taste the tiny poori filled with potatoes. It was good. We continued walking looking for the clothes we wanted. Ramli and me got what we wanted with their help and headed to a restaurant which was at the famous food street for supper as it was already 2330hrs or so… Wow it is so late already and we have spend almost 12hrs with the super nice siblings.

During dinner we chatted about the guide and Rashid was saying to us that they didn’t want us to pay the guide as they feel that he didn’t do anything and they didn’t like him.. Heheh and part of the reason why they followed us is that they wanted to make sure that the guide don’t cheat us of our monies… We are so honored to receive this kindness from them eventhough we are bearly strangers when we met. During the dinner we could see the sister kept rejecting calls on her mobile and asked Rashid if she was alright. He told us that her husband and sister was calling and asking their whereabouts as it is really late and woman cant stay out so late.. We were worried for her and afraid she might get into trouble because of this. But both of them kept assuring us it would be alright as the husband could not get angry with her as he is afraid of her said Rashid.. Kekekke

We bought them dinner and exchange numbers and emails so we could keep in contact. After the dinner we parted ways and promised to keep in contact.


Bro and Sis ... Wonderful people!!

I guess this is the most wonderful day we had thus far thru our journey… We are now so impressed of the Pakistanis …. They are such nice and welcoming people…

Day 54 Amritsar to Lahore 21st Aug 09

We woke up when we wanted to and got out to have breakfast and look for our transport alternatives to Attari the border to Pakistan. When we got out of the hotel the sky was all dark and was going to rain soon. We quickly walked towards a restaurant to hide from the rain which was already falling. I had veg chowmein and Ramli had butter dosa and masala dosa. We finished our food but it was still raining but we didn’t think much of the rain and just got out to look for the tourists information which was suppose to be near the Golden Temple.


We arrived there and didn’t see any tourist information counter, walked to the back of the temple and saw a police post and decided to ask the police. When Ramli was asking the police a sikh man with red turban who was approaching the police heard and said we could take the taxi at about 3.30pm if we wanted to watch the closing ceremony. But we said we wanted to cross the border to Pakistan. So he said it will costs Rp450 which was the standard price. We confirmed with him and he sent us to the hotel to grab our bags to check out. Yeah!! Finally we will be leaving India..


We arrived at Attari at about 1300hrs, paid the taxi driver and ignored his demand of tips and walked to the customs office. Got our passports and bags checked thoroughly and walked across the somehow orderly and systematic India customs towards Pakistan custom office. I was impress as thus far we have gone thru 3 India border customs this is the only one with computerize system. But when we arrived at the Pakistan customs we were more impress, their customs is like the ones we have in Singapore with x ray baggage checks. Everything was finished within 5mins. Impressive !!


Actually we planned to watch the closing ceremony between India and Pakistan before heading to Lahore but after we checked again the ceremony is only starting at 1900hrs and it is only about 1400hrs when we are done at the check point. A man we met told us that the ceremony is here everyday you can come again tomorrow or something and don’t have to wait here for so long. What he said is true so we headed outside and was ushered to a book shop. Hmmm I wonder why but anyway we wanted to sell our India Lonely Planet book so we went and asked the nice young man how much it costs.. He could take the book at PKR400 so we sold it to him. He offered us to sit at the shop while looking if we wanted to get the Middle East LP.. While looking he asked if we had the Pakistan guidebook but we said we already had it. He ask to show it to him and flip thru the pages and showed us the page about the Wagah border talking about a very friendly and helpful Mr Latif and his book shop. Ohh so we said so you are Mr Latif… Kekkekekek he just smiled humbly.


He offered Ramli Chai and I had mango drink from the bottle. And the Chai is free only had to pay for the mango drink. After a few mins a old man came along who spoke very good English came and sat with us and started chatting with us. Hmmm we were thinking we have met the nicest local people thus far after coming from India. We chatted for a while and a taxi guy was offering us his service to Lahore at PKR600 we agreed and he was like rushing and kept telling us is time to go… hheheheh so we quickly finish our drink and went with him. Seems every backpacker passing here will head to the Regal Internet Inn in Lahore to stay.. Cause they also asked if we were going there..


After about 1hour taxi ride thru the roads of Pakistan we arrived in Lahore at Regal chowk where the guesthouse was. Thru the ride we realize that Pakistan is much cleaner than India to compare with and even there is rubbish around at some places it isn’t as smelly as India.. Hmm maybe not much people practice to urine in public.


We went up to the dark stairwell to Regal Internet Inn check the double room with communal toilet costing PKR440/night which was alright so we settled in. Right after putting down our bags we headed out to look for lunch. Beef deprived Ramli was wanting to go to Macdonalds to have the double cheeseburger or big mac!! NO fail he had to go there. We asked the hotel guy where it was he gave us instructions and we left.


After walking about 15mins we seems to be lost and could not find it and we asked the way from another man and he showed us again where it was. We walked up the road and from a far we saw the big Macdonalds signboard and quickly headed over. After walking around the building we couldn’t see any Macdonalds in sight. So Ramli went into a shop to ask for directions. And seems the guy said that is not here is 4-5km away from here at Fortress Stadium… Hmmm so we hailed a rickshaw and headed there..


We arrived at the Fortress Stadium and was surprised to see the similarity of these place with the shops in Australia. It is like a area with many small shops selling everything and with all the fast food outlets all around. Again we were very impressed. Quickly we got down and rush over to Mac.

Went straight to the counter and check if they serve beef. And YES they did and they had quarter pounder!! We ordered a quarter pounder meal each and a 9 piece nugget. Whoa Ramli’s first bite into the beef was like “haven” for him… For me is the nugget that made me go yummmmy… The nuggets are hot and juicy… Tasty!! Of course Ramli didn’t stop there, he went and bought another 2 cheese burger…. He is really beef deprived!!


Macdonalds!!


Looks at his grin * )


my turn ..


The shopping area at the Fortress Stadium



After we headed out to go wander around the shops at the area and stumble upon a big supermarket with the name Hyperstar… Hmmm the logo and colors is similar to Carefour.. Not sure if it was a copy cat or they had to give it another name… We went in and was convinced it should be Carefour with another name as the décor and the way the things are displayed is the same.. We are so happy to go to a big supermarket after so long… Makes us feel like home.. Got some stuffs and headed out to continue with our adventure… We saw a few copies of KFC that are selling the same thing and the name so similar AFC ? …heheh Al-Nair Fried Chicken or something…


Sinbad ?


About 2100hrs we decided to head back to the hotel to rest for the night and to check if Ramadhan was confirmed as we asked around before at the customs they were saying it isn’t confirm to start on Saturday 22 Aug but is confirmed to start on Sunday 23.. When we reached the hotel we asked the guy and he said is confirmed tomorrow as he is also muslim. Alrighty we will go for sahur with him tomorrow as he said the road side stalls are open and he will be going also…

So we rested for the night after listening to 2 musicians played Sufi music with their flute and drums ….

Day 53 New Delhi to Amritsar 20th Aug 09

We slept at about 0100hrs and with a winked of the eye it is already 0330hrs.. Time for us to wake up and get ready to go to the train station to catch our train. Left the hotel at 0411hrs and walked over to the New Delhi station.

When we arrived we checked on the board where our train 1057 would be stopping at.. It didn’t appeared on the led screen so we decided to check at the main hall. So it will be stopping at platform 2.

I was turning and walking towards the bridge when Ramli signaled to just walk over the platform as the train was already there and platform 1 was empty. I was reluctant as one I knew the tracks will have poo and urine from the trains that was stopping there as the toilets in the train do not store the poo/urine. The toilet bowls are like toilet holes, whatever you “let go” it goes out directly. And two the platform was very high and it is difficult for me to get down cause of my short legs and my heavy backpack. He looked insistent so I just went with the flow. He helped me stepped down the platform and I was very careful looking on where I was stepping even though it was still dark. We cross 2 tracks and was near our train. He hopped over the track and was climbing up the steps of the train. I followed behind as it was dark I couldn’t see clearly,

I hopped over and the next thing I know my right leg went right into a ditch or drain with water in it cause I could feel the water splashing.. I think the depth of the ditch or drain is up to my calf.. I fell flat on the floor as I couldn’t keep my balance due to the heavy backpack.. You could imagine my reaction at that moment. I was cursing as I knew that I should have stepped into the SHIT HOLE!!! Cause my hands are all black and I don’t even want to allow myself to start smelling.. I wanted to cry but the tears wont come out… I tried my bests to get up on my feet. Ramli turned and asked what happen ?? I was so mad but didn’t shout and just said I fell into the shit hole and continued cursing softly. The worst thing was there was a local Indian lady standing at the cabin which we were entering.. She looked at me and I didn’t even have the cheek to glance at her cause I am so embarrassed, I could feel that she wanted to help or say something but I just walked … This is my most embarrassing and stupidest moment thus far thru this trip!!!

We got to the other side of the platform looking for B1 coach. I was still cursing and was so mad at Ramli at that moment cause I don’t understand why he had to cross the tracks when we could have just walked up the bridge and arrived safely on the other side. So many thoughts ran thru my mind and I was really really really mad!!! We couldn’t stop to check if I had stepped into a Shit hole or something else cause the train will be leaving soon… But I just wanted to scream at Ramli cause it was his idea to walk on the track but I kept my cool.

While walking water is dripping down my legs and my shoes are all soaked.. People are looking at me but I just couldn’t bother anymore.. I’m just fuming!! Got to the coach got in and Ramli kept asking me if my legs are alright I just nodded or maybe said okay. I couldn’t remember, I’m just too angry to say anything… He asked me to go clean myself up and luckily the toilet was clean and no smell of urine or poo… I really wanted to cry which I think would make me feel better but the tears just couldn’t come out.. I was angry that my clothes got dirty and my shoes all black…. Ohh I didn’t mention if it was poo or … It was black oil with water, I think use for greasing the tracks… When I was trying to get it off my hands and legs I don’t know if I was “lucky” cause at least it isn’t poo… I manage to clean up myself and the shoes which is still stained with black oil and went back to the coach.

Ramli was sitting there waiting for my return and I could see on his face and hear from his voice that he felt bad about what happened.. But still I was angry and couldn’t talk to him yet. He helped to wash my vaude bag which was also stained. I did my solat and told went to sleep all the while trying to calm myself down… I think I only got to sleep about 30mins later cause my mind just couldn’t calm down….


The cabin



I got up about 1030hrs and found that Ramli was already awake reading his book and told me he bought the omelette toast for me but is cold already. I got up wash my face and had my breakfast . He asked if I was okay… I said I was okay and showed him the big bruise on my right thigh, a bruise on my left knees and scratches on my right palm… Again I could sense that he still feel very bad about what happened but now I had cool down and just talk to him normally not wanting to bring up about what happen earlier… Not now I thought… Maybe later, but I had to tell him….

The coach we were on was very empty.. we had the whole berth to ourselves. We read our books and watch the villages pass by. Ramli asked the guy who was in charge of the pillows and linens what time the train will arrive and he said 5pm. We took naps and read our books and when 5pm but we have yet to arrive at Amritsar. Waited and waited for the train to move .. Finally about 6pm we arrived at Amritsar station. Got our bags and got down the train. Got up a auto rickshaw to the area near the Golden Temple which was said on the lonely planet that there is many guesthouse over there..

We walked around got on a rickshaw looking for a hotel stated on the LP, we checked the room but wasn’t please for the price they are charging. We walked down the same street and check another Hotel Chand which was clean and looked they have just refurbished the place so we confirmed. After putting down our bags and freshening up we got out to go catch the sunset from the Golden Temple.


Golden Temple



Entrance to the temple was free. No shoes are allowed so we had to deposit at the shoe counter for no charge. Ramli had to borrow a scarf from the bin outside to cover his head and luckily I brought my pashmina. Before we enter there is a small pool for the devotees or visitors to wash their feet. When we went in Ramli told me he saw a few male devotees taking the water and drinking it .. Gosh that is disgusting…


Sunset and Golden Temple


Ramli had to use their scarf to cover his Aurat..





Golden Temple by night

The Golden Temple looks just like in the pictures surrounded by a big pool. When we entered the sun was just setting and the view was beautiful. Devotees were walking round the pool to get to the main entrance of the temple. We sat down beside the pool to enjoy the view. After a while we notice that the Sikhs are also bathing in the pool just like how the hindus did in Varanasi. But their water is way way cleaner as we could see big fishes swimming in the water which means that the water wasn’t that contaminated so the fishes could survive. This temple is very well maintained with guards walking around the area checking on the devotees and tourists. The pool has also chains for devotees to hold on to if they are doing down for a deep.

Amritsar is different from the other parts of India, cleaner and more orderly. We were thinking that it might be the Sikhs that made the different as they seem to be cleaner than the Indians.. Hehehehehe

We hang around at the temple for about 1 hr waiting for the sun to set and catch the night view of the temple. After we left and went looking for dinner. Ramli suggested Dominos Pizza so we went and check if they are halal ? We walked in and saw that they do not serve meat and is 100% vegetarian. Alright than we should try it out. We orderd a medium pizza, a garlic bread and 2 pastas. We enjoyed the dinner and left to wander the streets.


Vege pizza


Pasta

Ramli was fascinated with the swords they sold eventhough he couldn’t get one he bought a pocket knife for just Rp150 instead.

We went back to the hotel after and rest for the night and watched movies on HBO in the room.

Day 52 New Delhi – 19th Aug 09

Both of us woke up about 0830hrs brushed our teeth and bought breakfast. Omelette with toast and Vege cutlets with toast. Tasted good and was enjoying the scenery outside. It will be another 2.5hrs before we will arrive in Delhi.

At the berth we were seating we chatted up with a man from Rajasthan who is a engineer for Ashok Leyland the local automobiles builder company. He is going to Chennai for a meeting at their head office for the buses they had to build for the Commonwealth game in 2010 which New Dehil will be hosting. He told us that Tata motors also another local automobile builder will build 1500 buses first and Ashok will build 1200 buses for the 1st phase as actually they have to build a total of about 15000 buses to cater to the athletes and guests that would be coming to New Delhi.

He told us that his brother went to Singapore just 1 month ago and had a bad experience.. His brother left his passport and bag in the taxi and couldn’t retrieve it even after calling the taxi company. As he had to get on this flight back to Delhi on the same day he didn’t had much time to pursue the matter and was only able to get to the India high commission to have them arranged to let him get on the flight with his copied passport. We were very surprised to know this as it isn’t common in Singapore to be not able to retrieve lost items if it was left on the taxi as we explained to him that it is a very big offence for the taxi driver if he doesn’t return the lost items as he might loose his taxi license. And the guy was saying maybe due to the rush the brother wasn’t able to pursue further and had to come back to India and apply for a new passport again which will not costs much money but will costs a lot of time and going thru so many procedures. This we could understand as we did experience this when we tried to get our Pakistan visa..

He was asking us about our trip and was very excited for us to know where we will be travelling to. We were telling him that we are looking forward to get to Delhi as we wanted to go and have KFC… and to our surprised he told us he had the same feeling just a month back when he was travelling back to his home town in Punjab as most of the people there are vegetarians he couldn’t have any meat for a few days and when he left and went to Jaipur the first thing he did when he arrived was dropped his bag and told his wife he didn’t want to do anything else but go straight to KFC with no delay… After hearing this we all laugh out loud.. Even the locals have the same cravings as us…

Finally the train pulled up at Delhi Old station, we got down bid our farewell to the guy that we didn’t get his name. And waited for Lide and Yili and the platform. While waiting we saw Joanne and was chatting with her on her plans and knew she was going to fly back home tonight and before that will do some sightseeing in Delhi before she leave. Since Joanne and her girlfriend is also going to Paharganj we took the autorickshaw together and went to Ajay guesthouse together.

There wasn’t any rooms available at Ajay as we expected and Yili and Lide didn’t call and book a room the day before. So they brought us to Anoops Guest house just across the road which I think is their affiliation. We asked for the cheapest room available as we will only stay for less than 24hrs and got a room for Rp300 no AC. Yili and Lide kept insisting that we just share the room with them but we didn’t want to disturb so insisted that we take our own rooms instead since is not so expensive. The rooms here was not good at all and the toilets is rusty and dirty. I told Yili and Lide that they have to go to Ajay the next day and before that better to go and make a booking with the reception.

We met again about 1400hrs to bring them to the long awaited KFC lunch!!! Eventhough we weren’t rushing I could feel that everyone just want to get there immediately. We orderd a 8 pc bucket and they also did they same..Wahahahha seems we are really KFC deprived!! I had 3 pcs and Ramli had 5pcs… Was really fulfilling for us!! And Lide and Yili also enjoyed themselves.

After we brought them to Palika Bazaar (the underground shopping bazaar), we followed them as we didn’t want to buy anything. But in the end we were the one buying a Rp2000 Ayat which is made in Kashmir. This piece is so beautiful we had to get it and at first we wanted to arrange to have it freight back to Singapore as we didn’t want to carry it with us and ruin the intricate stitching but after checking the freight which will costs Rp3500 we change our mind as it is more expensive than the costs of the Ayat. Lide said that if we wanted he could arrange to freight it to Singapore for us as he is certain that it will costs very much cheaper. We like this piece so much and was thinking if it isn’t cheaper we will just have to carry it with us. The shop owner Mr Owais Aslam whom is also Muslim was a nice man and told us that he and his wife will be going for the Haj pilgrimage this year and will pray for our safety. We are very touched after hearing this. We exchange contacts, paid for it and left for Paharganj as we were supposed to meet Joanne for dinner at 1730hrs.

But when we got to Ajay the meeting point it was already 1800hrs and she wasn’t there. We went to the café as per normal to check our mails with our laptop while waiting for her. She didn’t turn up and we reckon she should have left for the airport as her flight is 2200hrs that night.

We sat at the café and Yili came after a while asking me to go over to the hotel we were staying at to see Lide as he had checked for us how much it costs to have the Ayat freighted back. She told me we will be very happy to know as it is way way cheaper. I went over and he showed me the calculations on the Chunghwa post website.. For a 500gm parcel it costs about SGD23 only… Phew!! Luckily we didn’t let the shop freight it for us.

After they came over to Ajay to join us for a while.. We chatted while Ramli sorted out his wireless connection on his Iphone. Both of them are very nice people and kept inviting us to Taiwan but I told them we could not be able to eat much if we go there as the food isn’t halal…Yili told us about a beef steamboat place which we had to go … She said that the beef that was serve is very fresh.. And really fresh meaning after the cow is slaughtered the meat will be served within 3 hours to the customers if the time exceeds they will us it to make meatballs or other purposes.. Whoa!! That sounds really fresh and nice.. I told her Im sure we would like it but too bad it isn’t halal.. She was joking that if we are seriously coming let them know and give them ample time so they could be able to go and beg the boss of the shop to arrange the meat to be slaughtered halal for us.. Kekekkeke I told her if we have the chance we will come to Taiwan..

We left Ajay about 0000hrs, got back to the room and got the Ayat and the bag and shoes that I bought in Jaisalmer to pass to Yili to have them help us freight back to Singapore from Taiwan. I pass her the money for the freight but they didn’t want to accept and said that they will need us to get Nikon lens for them so we could deduct the freight from there. We felt really bad but thankful that we met such nice people and was grateful.

We said our goodbyes and bid farewell..

Day 51 Jaisalmer to Delhi 18th Aug 09


Local Jaisalmer veg seller with her bangles..


Local house





Traditional Jaisalmer House



outside the fort



Check out time for Hotel Paradise is 0900hrs, sigh had to get up early. We checked out at about 0930hrs and went for breakfast with Yili and Lide at the restaurant we went yesterday night. After breakfast we went walking around the town as Yili wanted to do some shopping.


waiting outside a camel leather job..


We tag along as we didn’t know that to do and didn’t want to go sightseeing at the city palace as we thought it will be the same as the rest we saw along the way before we arrived in Jaisalmer. Maybe tagging along wasn’t a good idea as I bought a slipper and 2 bags.. Anyway it was very cheap so I couldn’t miss the chance and knew I would regret if I didn’t get it. Ramli didn’t loose out also, he tailored made a Punjabi looking top and ali baba pants in white which he say will be used for prayer during this ramadhan and could be used later back home.. It is very rare for him to want to buy anything so I was happy for him… kekekke


little girl trying to break in to the shop with the rock


Time pass so fast, before we knew, it is already 1600hrs and we had to go back to the hotel to grab our bags and head to the train station to catch our train at 1715hrs. While we were walking up the slopes into the fort towards our hotel we saw a familiar face in the auto rickshaw passing us. It was Joanne !! The girl from New castle that we met in Chitwan, Nepal. Was good feeling to see her again and she is also taking the same train as us to Delhi.


Paper eating cow.. hmmm


Man sewing a bed cover.



We gathered our things and got to the train station. Lide and Yili was also taking the same train but in a different coach. We told them about Ajay guesthouse in Paharganj and told them they have to stay at that hotel as it is really worth the Rp700.. We decided to bring them there when we arrive at Delhi since we also need to find a room to put our bags and rest for the night while waiting for our 0440hrs train.


The train left Jaisalmer at 1715hrs and would arrive at Delhi old station the next day about 1100hrs. We settled in our seats and rested for the night and waited anxiously for Delhi to arrive….